Nairobi Noize X Luku Store: Exporting Kenyan Fashion & Culture, with James Kagima & Francis Kinyanjui

The latest collaborative collection between Nairobi Noize and Luku Store aims to celebrate Kenyan streetwear culture. With a few carefully crafted and handmade upcycled pieces making up the first collection, Kagima (Nairobi Noize) emphasizes the need to tell the world authentic Kenyan stories through fashion, while Francis (Luku Store), having worked with Nairobi powerhouse brands like Akiba Studios, provides an international platform that can be used to export these stories.

First, the usual. Tell us a bit about yourselves.

Francis: I was born & raised here, in Kenya. Went to primary & high school here, then when I graduated, I got the opportunity to study abroad. And I’d say that the first time I realized that I was black or that racism is a thing was actually when I moved to Europe. I think when you grow up in Kenya, it’s never a thing or an issue. You never feel like you’re a minority or from a group that’s looked down upon. So that triggered something in me. I was thinking about it recently, even just reading authors like Chimamanda & other African authors who also describe that journey; it imparted something in me where I felt like there’s a narrative of Africa, which is one of dependency, poverty, all that. And, of course, we do have our issues. There’s a big income inequality problem, for example. But there’s another aspect of Kenya and Africa in general that’s not highlighted at all. So for me, with this project & Luku & the other projects that I’m working on, I want to explore the potential of African youth. My idea with Luku is to represent the streetwear brands from Kenya & give them an international platform, no matter how small, and allow them to become more visible, and try to change the current narrative.

Kagima: I’m an artist & designer based in Nairobi. I studied architecture in uni & my passion lies in designing products more than houses. One of the ventures that I went into was fashion design, & after school, I had the opportunity to meet Vart, who had been in the industry for a minute & was conversant with the Nairobi fashion industry & community. We started Nairobi Noize together, which is basically a collective of two guys just making clothes & experimenting. Then I met Kinyanjui, & I’d seen what he’d done with Akiba & what he’s been trying to do for local fashion brands. And, of course, I bought into the idea of exporting culture to Europe just as much as we import it. That way, they get to see what we’re making here & hear the stories that we have to tell. Nairobi Noize reflects Nairobi culture, so what Luku aims to do aligns with our brand ethos.

photo by Lotte Smits

How did your fashion journey start?

Kagima: My mom used to buy me cool clothes, so I developed a love for fashion. I bumped into fashion design while in design school & started getting into the process of making clothes, then got familiar with different designers & creative directors. That was maybe 3 or 4 years ago, and Nairobi Noize came to life a year ago.

Francis: The concept or the idea of Luku started quite similarly to Kagima about 8 months ago now, & it’s evolved since then. I also come from a family of entrepreneurs, and being in that environment & seeing how you can build anything you want and bring people & ideas together through hard work gave me a great foundation to start. The key for me is we need to keep evolving. The industry is changing a lot, and the way fashion is consumed is changing as well. We’re more concerned about sustainability through thrifting & upcycling, so brands like Nairobi Noize pioneering that is beautiful to watch.

My personal fashion journey started a while ago. I’ve always loved to play around with different outfits & try to express my personality through how I dress. It’s also a confidence booster. If you put on a fresh fit, you go about your day with an extra air of confidence.

photo by Comac Ajwang

Tell us about this collection.

Kagima: It’s a representation of the beauty & darkness of Nairobi, hence the name. Those sides exist in harmony regardless of the setbacks. Most Nairobians would agree that aside from a few issues, this is a great city to live in. The collection was inspired by the co-existence of these two worlds in a city full of different people. Nairobi culture is unique, & we’re trying to package that in a way that can show the base duality.

photo by Lotte Smits

As someone who’s half here & half abroad & involved in both fashion scenes, what would you say needs to be done to further the growth of the local industry?

Francis: It boils down to quality. Obviously, European brands have had more time to finetune their products, & there’s a wide range of brands. There’s the fast fashion brands that focus on low-cost production & mass consumption. Then you have brands that are focused on providing value to the consumer, so there’s an emphasis on quality.

On the Kenyan side, we just have to push the brands to focus on quality and have an appreciation for brands like Nairobi Noize who truly keep that in mind. We have to keep supporting them to get better and also remember that it’s a process. I see a lot of potential & we’re headed in the right direction.

photo by Comac Ajwang

Nairobi Noize is a brand that’s big on sustainability through thrifting & upcycling, was that a conscious decision?

Kagima: Yes & no. We considered a lot of factors. Both Vart & I love denim and wanted to find customizable fabric. But finding high-quality & pocket-friendly fabric in Nairobi isn’t easy, so we found an alternative. It’s a bit easier to find high-quality denim when thrifting, & it’s a long-lasting fabric that can be reworked multiple times & looks better as it ages. And although sustainability wasn’t the main factor when we started this, it’s definitely something we’re passionate about & continue to champion.

photo by Comac Ajwang

What inspires you?

Kagima: As an artist, I believe that my duty is to reflect whatever is going on around & inside me. As a kid, it was comic books, then when I joined uni, I found artists like Basquiat & Kerry James Marshall: black artists who were resilient & did so much for black culture. That inspired me to document the black experience. Also, seeing Virgil grow from engineering & architecture to a multifaceted designer & creative director gave me the courage to pursue my passions. Looking at their blueprint & witnessing their journeys is very inspiring. My peers also inspire me, Nairobi designers like Akiba, Meta, Nairobi Apparel: they showed me that it’s very attainable.

Francis: I’ll sum it up by saying that I’m inspired by the potential in Africa. I think there’s so much happening, so much positive energy, & I want to highlight that in my small way. I want to build a community here, continue learning, & meet interesting people doing things to rebrand Africa. I also have to reflect on my upbringing, my role models, and my family: they inspire me greatly.

photo by Comac Ajwang

Any advice for anyone who’s trying to break into the fashion industry?

Kagima: Make sure you follow your heart & be resourceful: don’t let anything hinder you. Don’t be afraid to reach out to established brands & curators even when you get rejections, which you will. But keep trying.

Francis: I’ll just echo that: take the initiative & reach out to the people you’re interested in working with. That’s how I got to work with Akiba. Don’t be afraid of rejection, take as many chances as you can, and pitch to as many people & brands as possible. You just need to start & you’ll find that the Nairobi art scene is very welcoming & supportive.

Anything you’d like to add?

Francis: I’m really excited about this collaboration with Nairobi Noize, and seeing as it’s their first collection, Luku is honored to be part of such a special moment in their journey. It’s gonna be a great one.